So, ANY firearm that is labeled N-SSA is gonna be true in design and reliability to the original. The muskets used in our competitions must pass tests for safety as well as be 'dimensionally correct'. I shoot traditional B/P in competition events with N-SSA, so I have seen, shot, and own several B/P muskets. sold the rifle and original 1842 bayonet for $200! wish i still had that bayonet misssissippi rifles had a flat butt plate.īut in 1980 nobody complained. the only problem was the crescent butt plate.
#1853 enfield bullet mold Patch
check armament supply lists if you find a zooie you'll be lucky.īTW i did a harpers ferry armory refit on my my old zooie by turning down the barrel to accept a 1842 socket bayonet and changed the frt barrel band to a mississippi rifle band mounted a brass sight to the front band, put a patch box in the butt stock and had a unique rifle. Nothing is written in stone and maybe some zooie's have been see in period images but for all due purposes they were not used in any worth while quantity. the mississippi rifle is very close to the remington zooie but did actually see combat both in the mexican war and war of northern aggression. paid $87.00 and today you see them all over the auction sites misrepresented as anything from a german jager rifle to a true combat C.W. i bought mine as a kit from sears robuck in 1978 and it was very accurate. the zooie was over produced and made by every little off the wall itailian maker. gun, they were bought up and used until the makers could get their act together to produce historically correct weapons. The zouave can be a good rifle and is quite popular with the N.S.S.S.AĪntonio zoli was one of the first makers to import. usually the muzzleloaders go much cheaper on these sites since they aren't as popular. the mainstream reenactor sites can be good but you must know and beware.Īnother good place is the gun auctions, especially the ones that lean towards modern weapons.
these folks only buy top quality weapons and take very good care of their weapons. You can't go wrong if you choose to purchase off the authentic campaigner forum. armi is just more correct in appearence then euroarms. (most of these companys don't make a change once the arm is put into production.). the barrels on the euroarms are beefier because of proof/liability /import laws and since the euroarms were imported at an earlier date the barrels have stayed heavier then the later enfields. The armisport enfield has a lighter barrel and the stock profile is closer to the originals. though now india and pakestan have entered the market. The N-SSA's Bulletin Board has a lot of good information on it about shooting Civil War Era weapons.Click to expand.navy arms is an importer not a manufacturner.Īll of the replicas are made in italy, even the parker hale enfield. Weigh all of your bullets and separate them into different "Weight Lots" As for the Minies that are too light-realize that they have air pockets in them and throw them back into the pot to remelt. After you find that load, then you can adjust the sights to be "Dead On" for that load.Ĭast your Minie Balls OUT OF PURE "Soft" LEAD ONLY. Shoot each set of cartridges off the bench at 100 yards to find which load delivers the TIGHTEST GROUP. Load up five cartridges with 42 grains FFFg black powder, five cartridges with 43 grains of FFFg, five cartridges with 44 grains of FFFg right up thru 58 grains. (6) Developing an Accurate Load -Generally every P-53 is different. Dixie Gun Works sells Aampco nipplies-JUST MAKE SURE YOU PURCHASE THE ONES WITH THE CORRECT THREAD SIZE FOR YOUR MUSKET. They are made out of Berrlium and 500% better than regular steel nipples. (5) Replace the nipple that came on the musket with an AAMPCO NIPPLE. (4) The advice given in the post above about the size of your Minie Balls is good advice follow it. You can cut down the strength of the Sear Spring a bit. Limit yourself to polishing the inside of the lock plate with Fine Grain Emery paper until it is "mirror bright." Same with the lock parts that rub against themselves when the lock cycles and then lube it. Unfortunately, if you try to get into working on the lock and screw up, it then has a tendency to catch on "Half-Cock" when you try to shoot it. (3) Ideally, you want a 3 to 4 pound trigger pull. (2) P-53's shoot best with a TIGHT TANG SCREW. This allows the the barrel to "flop around" when the arm is fired, which kills any chance of exceptional accuracy. Unfortunately, most of the Italian repros have way too much wood cut away in the breech section. (1) Glass bed the breech section of the barrel. IF you have a replica P-53 and want it to be "all that it can be" you have to do the following: I have been shooting rifle-muskets since 1968 in N-SSA competition.
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